Washer Motor Coupler Replacement | Appliance Repair Boise

Motor Coupler – How to Install

 

When your motor coupler goes bad on your washing machine - Kenmore, Whirlpool, or Maytag washer - the inner tub will no longer spin and the agitator will not rotate. You will likely hear a loud grinding sound when the washer is in use.  A motor coupler replacement is a common repair.  At Western, we provide this Boise service at a very reasonable cost.

The motor coupler is a small rubber and plastic piece that couples torque from the motor, through the transmission, and into to the drive shaft of the appliance.  Because the washer’s motor coupler transmits all the motor torque, it makes sense that it will receive the most mechanical stress of the system.  This part may be prone to breakage after five or so years.  The following procedure will give you tips on the repair and replacement of washer’s motor coupler.  If you feel you cannot perform this task, call a professional appliance repair company in your area.

Caution:  Before any appliance repair is attempted, please disconnect electrical power to the unit.  Electricity will kill you if you are not careful.

Step number one is to remove the control panel so you can access the cabinet clamps.

Most direct-drive washers have two screws on the back of the control panel, one on each far end, pointing downwards. You will have to look closely to find them. A flashlight and Phillips-head screwdriver with an extension will help perform this easily.  Remove the two screws all the way without dropping them in the back of washer. Gently pull the front of the panel forward and rotate the front side of panel upwards. Rotate panel all the way backwards and lean it against the wall.

Step number two is to remove the appliances enclosure. Using a large flat-blade screwdriver, insert into slot and push the screwdriver handle away from you to release each clamp.

Remove the two clamps completely and set aside.  Disconnect the lid switch connector, which is located just under the control panel, which you just removed.  The connector will be very evident.  Slowly pull the top of the washing machine enclosure towards you so it pivots near your toes.  It is useful to put your toes against the outside of the enclosure to prevent it from moving.  Once pulled all the way towards you, release your toes and pull the enclosure off its base.  Set this aside.

Locate the washer drain pump.  

 It is secured to the motor with two clamps.  Remove the hex screws securing the clamps and set aside.  Use a large flat-head screwdriver to pry away the clamps and removed the pump from the motor shaft.  You do not have to remove the water hoses.  Remove the motor clamps and remove the motor.  You will now see the motor coupler. 

If the motor coupler is bad, you will see broken plastic pieces worn rubber.  If in doubt, replace it.

When installing a new coupler, I suggest you use one of the new couplers with the metal insert in the center.  These rarely go bad and are worth the extra few dollars. 

Tap the new coupler on to the motor and transmission shaft, line-up the teeth, and reinstall.  Note – if you need to tap on the motor coupler to secure a proper fit, be sure to tap the metal insert instead of the plastic – which is prone to breakage.