Motor Coupler – How to Install
When your motor coupler goes bad on your washing machine - Kenmore, Whirlpool, or Maytag washer - the inner tub will
no longer spin and the agitator will not rotate. You will likely hear a loud grinding sound when the washer is in use.
A motor coupler replacement is a common repair.
At Western, we provide this
Boise service at a very
reasonable cost.
The motor coupler is a small rubber and plastic piece that
couples torque from the motor, through the transmission, and into to the drive
shaft of the appliance. Because the
washer’s motor coupler transmits all the motor torque, it makes sense that it
will receive the most mechanical stress of the system. This part may be prone to breakage after five
or so years. The following procedure
will give you tips on the repair and replacement of washer’s motor
coupler. If you feel you cannot perform
this task, call a professional appliance repair company in your area.
Caution: Before any appliance repair is
attempted, please disconnect electrical power to the unit. Electricity will kill you if you are not careful.
Step number one is to remove the control panel so you can
access the cabinet clamps.
Most direct-drive washers have two screws on the back of the
control panel, one on each far end, pointing downwards. You will have to look
closely to find them. A flashlight and Phillips-head screwdriver with an
extension will help perform this easily.
Remove the two screws all the way without dropping them in the back of
washer. Gently pull the front of the panel forward and rotate the front side of
panel upwards. Rotate panel all the way backwards and lean it against the wall.
Step number two is to remove the appliances enclosure. Using
a large flat-blade screwdriver, insert into slot and push the screwdriver
handle away from you to release each clamp.
Remove the two clamps completely and set aside.
Disconnect the lid switch connector, which is located just under the
control panel, which you just removed.
The connector will be very evident.
Slowly pull the top of the washing machine enclosure towards you so it
pivots near your toes. It is useful to
put your toes against the outside of the enclosure to prevent it from
moving. Once pulled all the way towards
you, release your toes and pull the enclosure off its base. Set this aside.
Locate the washer drain pump.
It is secured to the motor with two
clamps.
Remove the hex screws securing
the clamps and set aside.
Use a large
flat-head screwdriver to pry away the clamps and removed the pump from the motor
shaft.
You do not have to remove the
water hoses.
Remove the motor clamps and
remove the motor.
You will now see the
motor coupler.
If the motor coupler is bad, you will see broken plastic
pieces worn rubber. If in doubt, replace
it.
When installing a new coupler, I suggest you use one of the
new couplers with the metal insert in the center. These rarely go bad and are worth the extra
few dollars.
Tap the new coupler on to the motor and transmission shaft,
line-up the teeth, and reinstall. Note –
if you need to tap on the motor coupler to secure a proper fit, be sure to tap
the metal insert instead of the plastic – which is prone to breakage.
